Chiles rellenos are usually made with poblano chiles, but we like the extra spiciness and bite-sized allure that jalapeños provide. Prepare: 1 1/8 cups Picadillo (about 1/2 recipe) Make a T-shaped slit in the sides of: 18 large fresh jalapeño peppers, stems intact The top of the T should be just below and parallel with the top of the pepper (and no wider than 1/2 inch); the long part of the T should extend from the stem to the point. Fill a large saucepan with about 3 inches water and add: 1/4 cup dark brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt Bring to a boil, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and add the jalapeños. Simmer very gently over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the peppers are almost tender, 5 to 6 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove the peppers from the liquid. Drain cut side down for a minute or two, then carefully scrape the seeds out with a small spoon. Stuff each jalapeño with about 1 tablespoon of the picadillo, pressing it and molding it roughly into its original shape. At this point, it is highly recommended that the jalapeños be put in the freezer for at least 30 minutes, but no longer than 60 minutes, to firm them up. Heat in a medium, heavy, deep skillet until very hot (about 375°F on a deep-fry thermometer): Vegetable oil (3/4 inch deep) While the oil is heating, spread on a shallow plate: 1/4 cup all-purpose flour Separate, letting the whites fall into the bowl of an electric mixer and collecting the yolks in a small dish: 3 large eggs, preferably at room temperature Add to the egg whites: 1/4 teaspoon salt Beat at medium speed until they hold stiff peaks. With the mixer running, add: 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour Then add the yolks 1 at a time, letting each be fully incorporated before adding the next. Working quickly (so the batter will not deflate) and in groups of 3 or 4 (so the pan will not get crowded), dredge a jalapeño in the plate of flour, then dip it into the egg batter to coat evenly and lay it in the hot oil. After about 2 minutes, use a spoon to very gently bathe the tops of the jalapeños with the hot oil. When they are golden underneath, use the same spoon to turn them over. Fry on the other side (no need to baste this time), then use a slotted spoon to remove them to a baking sheet lined with several layers of paper towels. Keep the fried peppers warm in a 200°F oven until all are done. Spoon onto individual serving plates: 2 cups salsa Set the warm chilies on top and decorate with: Chopped fresh cilantro (optional)